Category: Animal House
I've wanted to have a pet in my life ever since I was a teenager. I had a German Shepherd when I was a child, but being that I was so young and that we only had her for a few years, I didn't really get to take care of her and was afraid of her half the time because she was so big and jumped. I know that having a pet involves alot of responsibility. I need to make sure that he's clean, fed, free of illnesses and treated immediately if he should become sick and that he has a clean and comfortable place in which to live. This means that I really need to stop being such a slob. I have to not only make sure that my apartment is clean, which it usually is, but also that there's nothing on the floor for him to trip on, get caught in, break or accidentally eat.
I'm ready to have a companion in my life. I'm not really a people person, except when it comes to those who are very close to me, children (don't want one of my own) and the elderly. I don't currently work, so have all the time in the world to give to my new friend. When I do find a job, though, I need to make sure that he'll be okay on his own. But I don't want him to be so much of a loner that he doesn't want to spend time with me. I want him to need me and to want me around to play, to cuddle and to talk to him. I'd like a pet that doesn't shed much if possible. I'd also like to try and get one that won't have severe medical problems down the line. This certainly isn't because I'd be unwilling to care for him, but rather, because it would break my heart to see all of these horrible things happening to someone whom I'd consider part of the family, all because of his breed. So I probably don't want a pedigree, but I could be wrong. Cost isn't an issue as I'm absolutely sure that I want to adopt.
I'm trying to decide between a cat and a dog and am having difficulty. If I get a dog, then I want a small one, so keep that in mind when answering these questions. What are some breeds that might interest me for both cats and dogs? Is it better for me to get a mut? major differences between cats and dogs? Can cats be as affectionate as dogs? Do both go through the stage of eating clothing/shoes, climbing on things etc? Is one easier than the other to train? Does it take longer to housebreak one over the other? Do regular litter boxes work for dogs or do they have special ones for them? Do small dogs still need to be walked and is it true that they enjoy being in cages more than out in big open places? Is there a way for me to teach a cat how not to scratch? I do not wish to declaw him, incase, Gods forbid, he gets outside and has to fight another cat. Of course, I'd try my hardest to avoid this but it could happen. Is it really necessary to have my pet nutered, particularly if he'll be indoors most of the time? I have a problem with removing the testicals of an animal, the same as I have a problem with human circumcision when the baby is too young to be able to choose for him/herself if this is something that he/she wants. Basically, nutering is castration and spaying is a full historectamy. They say that all of this is healthy, but if it causes problems in humans, I can't understand how it can't cause problems in animals and totally disrupt their cycles and natural behaviours. Some of these behaviours, like marking territory, roaming, getting in heat etc. aren't desirable but I look at it this way. He's my pet and my responsibility. You don't say "I'll give my child surgery so that he/she behaves properly" so why should such drastic steps be taken for a pet? They do offer vasectomies and tubal ligation as options, and if I had to choose, I'd go with these. But I'd much rather find some kind of safe herbal sollution to the problems of pregnancy and sexual desire in my pet.
Speaking of which, what about natural remedies for illnesses? Can herbal treatments for pets be trusted or is this science too new to tell? That question was mostly for those who believe in these treatments for humans, since I'm sure most people who are against those will be against them for pets as well. I refuse to feed my pet standard pet food. I've heard too many horror stories of what goes into that stuff and they're far worse than even the nonorganic foods that humans eat due to the low quality of the sources fthat many companies use. So what kinds of food can I feed either a dog or a cat? I did find some organic foods for both but is it really better for them to eat precooked things or should I go raw? I know you can do this with dogs when they're very young, but can they still eat cooked food after that? Can and should it be done with cats? Do you know of any special bowls or something that I can use that won't spill incase I run into them or something? What toys can my pet and I enjoy? Finally, I keep saying "him" and "he" because I've always wanted a male. But would there be an advantage in getting a female?
Thanks for all of your help. I'll ask more things as I think of them but this is all that comes to mind for now.
As far as the gender thing, I don't know, but if you want an animal that loves all on you and give you everything you want and need out of it I'll recommend a dog. With a cat you want and may not get as much loving and hugging and that sort from them from what I've observed, but if I had to decide I'll definitely go with a cat because I want the exact opposite of what you want. I want an animal that doesn't want to be under you as much as in the cuddling and hugging, licking, running to you when your scared and so on.
Hope this helped and I want to know what you decided if you decide on this issue of yours. :)
If you're not currently working a cat would probably be more low cost than a dog. in my experience they require less maintenance and trips than dogs to the vet. They are quite a bit less prone than dogs to allergy problems. They require companionship less, but that doesn't mean they require none. If you're out a lot they might get skittish and start taking it out on your furniture in the form of scratching. You really need to comb and brush them to avoid serious shedding, but do if you get a cat get an adhedsive roller to get the hair off your furniture.
Dogs, if you're concerned about serious health problems down the line get a mutt or at least one that has two breeds. For longevity the smaller the better. I don't personally feel uncomfortable with neutering but if you do get a female. It is important, even with an indoor animal, to neuter or spay unless you are a licensed breeder. Otherwise they will want to roam, and unless you enjoy the smell of urine to mark your walls or the blood of female heat, which few do, they need to be neutered or spayed to avoid seriously marking your home. In my experience dogs are a bit higher maintenance on the veterinary side, especially more prone to springtime allergies but both animals can be worth it for companionship. If you don't have a lot of time on your hands or experience, you might not want to get a puppy or kitten as they take a lot of time and patience to housebreak, litter train in the case of a cat. Dogs enjoy the feeling of being in a crate, but you never want to let them soil the crate or they will get used to doing that. It is actually for use in part for housebreaking. They have to learn to restrain themselves in there until you can get them outdoors, and they must be walked at least 3 times a day. Also be real careful about where you put stuff like your foods and any medicines. Some foods, like chocolate, dogs can't eat at all as they will get sick, and no matter how well you housebreak 'em, keep in mind if they get sick the first thing you may smell when you get home is, you guessed it, poop or vomit. My last dog, a part labrador retriever, got into some mixed nuts I left too low, and when I returned from work, I smelled my apartment before I turned on the light, so you really need to be careful. I would seriously consider a shelter animal, too, as there are many available and you can even get aquainted in a particular area and be assisted in your choice. Good luck deciding.
Thanks to both of you for your valid points and concerns. I was unaware that female dogs bled. I'm guessing it's like menstruation? In any case, I have enough trouble dealing with myself in that regard and definitely don't want to deal with a pet's markings and the odors they can cause. At the same time, I don't want to cause him/her any undo pain or be barberic to him/her. It really is a bad situation. I'm home about 99% of the time so definitely have the time to train and housebreak an animal. Of course, the problem becomes dealing with the messes they make while they're still learning, and as a totally blind individual, that doesn't sound too cool. Perhaps, I really will get a slightly older animal. After all, there are many out there that just aren't wanted precisely because they're not really young. I firmly believe in adoption and shelters seem like an excellent idea. Hair on furniture could be a serious problem., since I couldn't see it and wouldn't want it getting all over. I figured I should get a mutt but wasn't sure. Thanks for the confirmation. I didn't know that smaller dogs have longer longevity. That's cool! I'm sure that there are ways to treat alergies with herbs and the like. One of my good friends got back to me and explained that herbal medicine is fairly advanced for dogs and she treats her's with herbs 80% of the time (they have other problems that require chemicals). There are about 18 steps to my apartment. They're outside and I'd worry about the dog running too fast and possibly dragging me down with him/her when we go for walks. Is this a serious problem with small dogs? I'm about 129 lbs. and 5 ft. 1 in. if it helps. Also, how much space does a dog need for walking? We have a very big deck in the back but that would involve either going in and down more steps or going all the way around the house. I could walk to the corner without a problem but generally don't go out on my own, and since this isn't a guide dog, I'd need to take him/her plus the cane. I'm not saying that it couldn't be done but how difficult do you think it would be for me to master it? What about in the winter when there's ice and snow? I'm particularly worried about the steps. There are some times when my parents don't get around to cleaning them for a day or two because I don't need to go down, since I have my food, water and other necessities. Perhaps, I should put locks on my cabinets to prevent the pet from getting into them? It will be a bit inconvenient, especially for the food, but I'd much rather do that and know that my dog/cat is safe than to have him/her get hurt.
Um, yeah I heard about the monthly thing with female dogs and that's the big concern I as a blind person would be worried about. I know you already said this, but I suggest a shelter because the animals are already spade and noodered.
I tried posting a rather comprehensive answer to a lot of your questions, and I was signed out when I tried to post! Instead of writing it all again, I'll basically give you a list of pros and cons for a dog or cat and will add detail where necessary.
Dogs
Pros
- openly affectionate in most cases, actively social
- can be taught to fetch, speak and can be taught basic obedience (sitting, lying down, staying, coming to its name, etc)
- may stimulate more exercise (needs at least some walking, though three times a day seems a bit much); is not apt to pull you around, since you're far stronger than the dog is. Snow+cane+dog = have fun, though.
- no litterbox to clean, and no hairballls either! I personally don't really mind either of these inconveniences, but you might
- easier to catch if escape is an issue as dogs don't jump very well...though they can still be quite quick when they wish
- males don't spray, though females do bleed...and sometimes rather messily; the worst a male dog will do is try to ride your foot or hand or something, which can either be funny or disgusting, depending on your view of things
- tend to be less finicky eaters on the whole than cats
- can be taught fairly quickly to walk on a leash
Cons
- tend to smell more strongly than cats, even when washed, as their scent glands are more active to the human olfactory range
- puppies need a little longer to house-train, and in the smaller dogs I've seen the house-training has only rarely been 100% effective; generally, the smaller the dog, the greater the struggle, though some breeds are known for it
- even small dogs can deliver a fairly nasty bite if provoked, threatened, frightened or angry; it's not common or terribly likely, but it bears mentioning
- tends to eat more than a cat and is apt to cost more money in the long run
- will live, on average, a little less time than a cat, though this is not necessarily an outright bad thing
- depending on temperament or breed or both, might be extremely food-oriented...to the point that things kept at the dog's level, even in supposedly canine-proof places, might not survive...it bears watching and is by no means a problem in all dogs
Cats
Pros
- good for a fairly small living environment if raised indoors and kept that way; a cat, on average, spends sixteen hours a day asleep!
- requires less socialization than a dog (this is hotly contested, mind you); essentially, a cat can get along with less overt attention than most dogs seem, but consequently does not offer the same overt attention that dogs do. If you've observed both dogs and cats interacting with people, you'll know what I mean.
- short-haired cats will basically clean themselves...didn't mention before, but dogs need regular baths, but a cat with good grooming skills never needs bathing unless it gets into something messy)
- eats comparatively little, though tends to be more finicky on what they do and don't like; will likely cost you less in food. On that topic, by the way, try not to worry too much about wet vs. dry, or organic vs. non-organic; lots of animals eat the everyday dried stuff and lead perfectly happy and healthy lives, just like the people all around you who eat trash and stay fit somehow. It's not ideal, but it's far from monstrous.
- a cat will tend to be fully house-trained by about three months old, and in some cases even younger. This is mostly done by the mother cat when the kittens have yet to be weaned, but be prepared for unexpected toileting from either a dog or a cat in its early days, as it's getting used to its new home and may be nervous or may be attempting to assert itself
- may be fully satisfied with simple toys like ping-pong balls or small stuffed animals to swat
- do not tend to possess much or any noticeable body odour, so if you want the animal to sleep with you in bed, you'll not be revolted by the smell
- fairly quiet and does not need walking, though teaching a cat to walk on a leash and then following through is by no means a bad thing
- are often cheaper to adopt and/or care for than dogs of comparable size
Cons
- males may spray if not neutered soon enough; this is both messy and stinky, and is nearly impossible to stop once it starts
- may scratch and damage furniture and other items if not provided with something "safe" to scratch; this is instinct, and it's useful too, so don't declaw your cat or entirely prohibit it from scratching
- some cat-hair tends to cling tightly to fabric, making it more of a chore to find and dispose of
- hair-balls! I need say no more
- a smelly litter-box, essentially another chore you've got to keep on top of unless you want your kitty deciding his toilet is better found on your bathroom floor - try and put the box in an area that isn't terribly high-traffic, preferably in a quiet place against a wall or shoved tight into a corner where the cat can do its business in relative private
- cats are natural escape artists, and can be very fleet of foot. A collar with a bell will help, but may not fix the issue entirely. Be aware that your cat might escape and set up ways of dealing with it if it happens. Cats may also jump and/or climb to get away from things, which makes them even harder to catch or find if they've gone away from you
- when angered, cornered, threatened or sometimes simply in fun, cats use teeth and claws to great effect; while each attack is likely not going to do much damage, the assault can be quite daunting for a blind person unused to felines as it's very fast and causes almost instantaneous low-to-high-moderate pain. You're not guaranteed violence with a cat, not by any means, but if you get it, it might surprise or unnerve you. Just remember that you are far stronger and smarter than the cat is, and you should do well
- male cats and females alike will do almost anything to get at other cats if they're in heat; another good reason to spay/neuter
There are other reasons and comparisons I could make, but this should do you for now. Myself, were I you, I'd get a kitten between three and six months of age, old enough that it's using its box but still easily young enough to sort of mold to your liking, behaviour-wise. Hopefully you've found this helpful. If not, or if you have more questions...well, that's what we're here for!
Oh, and a quick note on breeds and such:
If it's companionship you want, don't bother with a specific pedigree or whatnot. This is particularly true of cats. Meet the animal first, of course...that goes without saying. If hair's going to be a problem, immediately eliminate long-haired dogs and cats if that's your fancy, and thus all relevant breeds, be they pure, cross or mutt. Then pick something from what's left. Spending a lot of money on a dog or cat is pretty much only going to do you well if you want to breed from that animal, which is a whole different can of worms that I'm not going to delve into here. You're after pet/companion animal advice, not breeding advice. You don't need to buy breed x to ensure temperament y; you might get, it but you might not...this is more true of cats than dogs, by the way. Pick a breed if you must, but base it only on size, hair and other definitive factors like those; don't base it on the good (or bad) stories you've heard about a breed...they are only sometimes trustworthy for dogs, and even more untrustworthy for cats.
Okay, that's really it this time. Have fun with your new pet!
Um, isn't there a difference in hair and fur? Should we look at that? I just realized that when you posted "hair" but I'm thinking it's fur. Plus, fur is ucky, but I'll go with hair if you really meant "hair"
I'm seeing 'cat' now that you've said more. I only have 8 steps up to my apartment, and this got me 3 weeks off after achilles rupture surgery than 2. I was still on crutches in a cast the Monday I was supposed to go back, and I come and go odd hours, so falling down the stairs was a legitimate concern and the doctor signed me out for another week until I was at least weight baring.
I also don't know how dog ownership is in a state with snow and ice. Black ice especially can make a person fall and get hurt. The salts put on the sidewalk to dry snow so people don't fall can, I have heard, be harder on a dog's paws when you guys go walking, and dogs need a good walk to do their business. Most cities also have "pooper scoop" requirements, as no one wants to step in poop. It really annoys me when my family is walking and there are dog turds on the sidewalks. Someone must have not scooped after a big dog as Mr. Spongebob thought there were homeless people camped in front of one house because of the big turds. I personally can't get either right now until I do dog/cat allergy tests, and if I pass I will either get a cat or small bird. Some cat litters now are strictly "clump" where you strictly take out the clumped, or soiled, litter. They're much lower maintenance, and you won't have to worry as much about slipping & falling when you get outside 'cause they're good indoor pets.
Responding to Shepherdwolf in this one. That's why I usually write my posts in Notepad and then paste them into the edit box on The Zone. Sometimes, I tend to write long things and then it eats them. *smile* I will definitely save these pros and cons as well as a few things that were written in my Live Journal in answer to my questions.
Dogs
I was thinking that I could let the dog out in the back, since the deck is huge. I'd just need to put a gate around the pool so that he/she doesn't fall in. There's no litter box to clean but then I need to find where the dog left his/her poop, unless I use one of those bags, which are probably really smelly. I once knew a dog who was taught to go on paper in the basement, but of course, I don't have that luxury, so would need to find a single place where he/she could go that wouldn't smell up my home. If the dog is spayed or nutered, I'm assuming he/she won't have the bleeding/humping issues? I thought that perhaps dogs smelled more than cats but wasn't sure. Thanks for clearing that up. That said, a cat's urin smells more, from what I'm told, so I guess it evens itself out. Uh oh. I'd better watch out for the breeds that aren't good at housetraining. I never even knew about that. Yeah, anything biting is bound to hurt.
Cats
Wow, 16 hours a day sleeping? That's incredible! Also not too cool. I think bathing is a good idea no matter the pet but it's good to know that about cats. I wouldn't want my pet eating anything that's not 100% up to par with high quality and standards. True, they wouldn't eat like that in the wild, but this will be a domesticated animal, and I believe he/she should only get the best. Will the housebreaking problems due to nervousness and adjustment occur even with adult pets? I don't mean truly older ones but ones who've recently matured. I'd love to have a pet in bed with me but I think that would lead to problems, particularly when Spiros comes over. Of course, I wouldn't want the cat/dog there then but he/she may not understand. So perhaps, it's better that I let him/her on the couch for a cuddle but not on the bed. I didn't know that cats can go for walks too. That's really cool. But I'm glad that it's not mandatory with them. I would actually have to pay for an adoption? This is new. Is this to insure that the pet gets a clean, loving and caring home? No, definitely no declawing! But, of course, stopping him/her from scratching inappropriate things would be a good idea. Still, I've read that they aren't that responsive to scratching posts. I've also heard that dogs, while they don't scratch, tend to chew on things. How long does this phase last with them? I'm sure with cats, the scratching is a lifelong thing. Thanks for the escape warning. Yeah, that would really make me nervous, scared is a better word. I have a funny feeling that putting a gate near the entrance to the stairs wouldn't really work, since he/she could jump over it or, Gods forbid, over the actual railing! I don't like the idea of an animal jumping on me and then biting or scratching me, particularly with sharp teeth and claws. I know that you said that it's not guaranteed but I'll definitely keep this in mind when considering a cat.
As I said, I'd never "buy" my pet, so spending money on him/her in that way isn't an issue. Hair is, but I'd hate to miss out on a great dog or cat simply because he/she had hair... Still, it probably is the logical thing to do for me to get a short-haired one. Thanks for the bit about stories. I'm the type who would fall into that trap.
To spongebob: that certainly makes sense about the rock salt. But I've also heard that they make little booties for paws, so I might check those out. Of course, if we go on the deck, it will be covered in snow in the winter, since there's no real reason to clean it, being that no one goes there then, but that could lead to another problem if the dog is small. Unfortunately, my town doesn't seem to be big on pooper scoop. There's this one idiot who always! leaves her dog's droppings on the sidewalk. The only reason we haven't told on her is that we've never been able to catch her in the act. But I sure as hell wouldn't want to do something like that... nasty! Thanks for the perspective and preference for cats. It helps even out the other posts I've been getting.
Hi there, Tif
Ok, owning both a cat and a dog, here's my take on things.
Dogs: They're great company, but if you want something to be exclusively yours, chances are that a dog won't be. They love everyone, mostly indescriminately. Puppies take much longer to house train, and are prone to accidents really for about the first five months. For the first three, they're quite nippy, into everything and rarely sit still. If you're having a pup, I'd suggest getting a crate. Once they get bigger, dogs, particularly larger breeds, are quite obedient if you take the time to train them well and reinforce this often. Training in itself is a hassle, as, in order to socialise the dog propperly, you really should go to the equivalent of puppy classes. Dogs will need their nails trimming regularly if they don't pavement walk a lot, and unlike cats, have no real way of shortening them themselves. They smell a bit, given that their glands are more active, and are generally less clean. The average small dog's bladder is about the size of a shot glass, so expect to be letting them out every few hours for a pee. Unlike cats, you'll need to train the dog to go on a lead so that you can find the poo to pick it up. How will you do this in the snow? Dogs, no matter how small, should be walked at the very least once a day. Around your house simply isn't enough. Even a small dog requires a good 20 minutes a day to be truely happy. Dogs will require feeding at relatively set times, and it's rare to find a dog who won't eat everything you put in the bowl, so chances are that you won't be able to leave food down. Dogs are social animals, so you'll definitely get a lot of affection. They can be loud, what with the barking and such, and territorial if not trained correctly.
Cats are usually much quieter unless you have a male or female who hasn't had their bits off. With female cats, you can give herbal supplements that knock their cycles off for a few months, so you wouldn't necessarily have to have them spayed. Problem with any animal though is that you don't have the females spayed, the older they get, the more chance of pyametra there is. This is when the uterus fills with pus due to the female having not been mated. If this happens and goes unnoticed even for a few hours, your pet is likely to die. With males though, if you don't have them fixed, most can and will spray. Sometimes you get lucky and find one who doesn't, but they're not common. I know of no supplements for a boy. If you get a short-haired cat you shouldn't have too many hairs on your clothes, but expeect to vacuum regularly whether it's a cat or a dog you get. Short hair gets more places, but sticks to things less than long hair, so it's a balancing act. Good luck to you teaching a cat to stay off your bed. It can be done, but will require consistency and a no giving in approach. Cats use a litter box, so there's no difficulty with finding te poo, nor picking it up, and you're not on a schedule for letting them out. They don't need walks either, something which will be handy for you in winter. A cat's urine does smell, but only if you don't keep your tray clean. Males smell more than females, but if you dump some bicarb of soda into the litter, it neutralises an awful lot of the smell. Alternatively, use pine litter, which stays odourless for about a week and a half of constant use. Cats don't require bathing, and in fact, if you do bathe them too often, it can damage their skin and coats. I do my Persians once every few weeks, but for short-hairs, I didn't bother at all. I had a cat for just shy of a year and she only needed it once. I know you say that a pet should be washed, but with a cat, its tongue has tiny barbs on it which are designed to detangle and clean the shafts of the hair. They are effective at this, trust me. Cats are free feeders, meaning that if you're feeding dry, you can leave it down all the time. Even if you do go for wet, leave a bowl of dried down. In the wild, cats will eat 8-10 times a day, and they tend to stay thinner if they can eat when they want. Royal Canin is a good, premium dried food. For wet, I'd feed raw meet if they'll tolerate it. Mine don't, so I cook up a little of what I'm eating myself and give them that. No more than a tablespoon per cat though, and if it's not raw, only once a day. This way, they still get the nutrients they need from eating the dried. I don't feed tinned cat food. Like you, I think it's full of crap. It's also bad for their teeth. With cats, if you go away overnight, they'll feed and toilet themselves, and are usually happy enough alone for a day or two. With a dog, you can't do this, as they'll need to be fed and let out.
With a cat, you'll get affection, but it is a quieter more gentle type unless you get a siamese or something similar. They keep their claws down if you buy a scratching post, and although they'll still need trimming, if they're proliffic scratchers, it won't be more than about every 6-8 weeks. If they scratch the furniture, there are ways of making them stop, from training with a spray bottle, to applying Softpaws so that they can do no damage. Rarely will a well-adjusted cat use his teeth or claws except in play, and if he's playing with you, believe it or not, he can have all sets of claws and his teeth against your skin and you won't get hurt. I've only once been slashed by a cat, and I've picked mine up when they've been hissing and spitting at each other. When we were introducing a new cat, Shepherdwolf grabbed one of mine in each hand, brought them together to get the screaming over and done with, and even though they were shrieking, he didn't get bitten or hurt. It's all about building the trust in your cat, and, with a kitten, discouraging slightly rougher play. When they're kittens though, they'll hurt no more than a puppy nip. If a cat is startled it might nip or slap you, but again, it's enough to startle rather than hurt if you have a decent cat.
Given your circumstances, your small living space, your not going out much on your own, the snow and steps in the winter, I'd suggest you go down the cat route. I appreciat you have tons of questions which possibly aren't answered here. If you'd like to talk to someone in person, I'm happy to come on ZBP and chat this all out with you. I breed cats, so am experienced there, and I have a guide dog. Our family have had dogs for years too, so I can help you there.
One last thing before I forget. Animals' digestive tracts are shorter than ours, meaning that the food stays in there for a maximum of 12 hours, compared to our 35. This means that they can eat raw meat and not suffer from food poisoning like we do. In answer to your question, raw meat can be fed to any age of cat or dog.
I really hope this has been helpful in some way, and as I say, please do feel free to give me a shout and we can chat propperly.
All the best
FM
To answer a few that I've missed, you can feed a dog any type of raw meat. With a cat, only feed fish occasionally, as too much of it is bad for their heart. Don't feed tripe, but do feed chicken, turkey, duck and rabbit. I occasionally feed mine mince too. Don't rely simply on meat as the whole of their diet. Like it or not, it just doesn't provide everything they need, unless you're prepared to give them the bones, guts and organs of the whole carcus, and I know I'm not.
The vets can knock a female out of heat with a hormone injection, but some herbal remedies also work.
A standard litter tray is fine for dogs, if you can teach them to use it. It'll need to be reasonably big though, big enough so that they can circle and turn around inside.
I'd say cats are just as affectionate as dogs, but whereas dogs are boisterous and in your face, cats will kind of sneak up on you, fall in your lap and demand you stroke them with purrings and headbuts and, if you're really lucky, rolling onto their back for a tummy rub. They, like dogs, will still want you around, but unlike dogs, are self-sufficient for longer periods.
I can't imagine any small dog enjoying being caged rather than being allowed out in the open. I haven't come across any animal, except incredibly timid ones, who enjoy that better.
You can get anti-spill bowls from most petshops. They have an extra wide base, and are usually very stirdy.
One final note on scratching just to illustrate how much it depends on the cat: Anna, my Russian, would turn around and nip me whenever I tried to pick her up and she didn't want me to. Yet that same cat could be struggling like crazy to get down, could be hissing, spitting, screaming, playing, doing anything else, and if I held onto her, she never even tried to bite or scratch. Cindy, a Persian I have at the moment, is scared of her own shadow. She's the most frightened little thing I've ever come across. She can be curled in a ball somewhere, hiding behind something, and even if I tug her out, she does nothing other than let me pick her up. I pick this cat's crusties from her eyes with my fingernail (no, it doesn't hurt, but not many cats'll let you get that close to their eye with a nail) and although she doesn't like it, she'll not scratch. There are just some cats who don't have it in them. I used to think they were hard to find, but even my tortie (and torties have a reputation for being feisty and a little handy with the claws and teeth) will only push me away with her feet, not claw me to ribbons. Yes, the claws will be out, but unless they're slashing with them, they don't hurt a bit. This cat can put her teeth on my skin, and again, it doesn't hurt. Cats have a really good grasp of how hard to bite. You think about it. They can pick up a fragile, thin-skinned kitten by the scruff in their teeth, and they don't draw a drop of blood. They can also do that to humans, as long as the human is consistent about where to draw the line between play and rough, unacceptable behaviour.
Adding a bit onto what FM has said on a few things:
First, with regard to biting and scratching. I wasn't trying to imply that a cat would do you really serious damage, only that the pain you might get from one might surprise you more than anything else. If you can deal with a bit of surprise in the event that your animal's fairly feisty or fairly young and playful, you'll be just fine. You're not going to be clawed to ribbons.
As for inappropriate toilet, the kitten I have now did it once and only once that I know of, on the same night I got him. After that, he went where he was supposed to. After one to four days, all such problems should be over.
If you're going to get a dog, get it to poop while it's on a leash. Any dog can be trained to do this. Finding the poop in snow is a little harder than if it's not in snow, but it's by no means impossible. Get a small bag, put your hand fully inside the bag while the dog is doing its business - take note of the dog's back to determine which action it's engaged in - and when the dog stands up and shuffles off, search with your protected fingers till you find the poop. Scoop it together with your fingertips, then flip the bag inside out and tie it shut. It will smell, but only a little. Having an outdoor garbage can for this sort of waste is a very good idea.
As for cat urine having a strong smell? It's true, but there are dozens of brands of cat litter which create their own smell. If the brand you choose - assuming you get a cat - is insufficient to cover up the smell, FM's idea will work like a charm. Personally, I use a type of litter that's lightly scented, so as long as I don't let the box get dirty, it doesn't matter a lot.
In general, folks, fur and hair are different things, but the two words are sometimes used interchangeably. Everything else about fur and hair has pretty much already been said. Tiff, for the sake of argument regarding food, I'm not sure if we can easily get Royal Cannon over here. Do some comparison shopping and find one that's going to work for you and your animal; Iams is good (I'm not sure how to spell that off the top of my head)...it's not utterly top-of-the-line but it's decent.
I'll offer you the same thing FM has, regarding a good chatter. I'll do it in PQN or private message as well, if you like. My family owned dogs the entire time I lived at home, and there was a cat in or around the house at all times, so my experience is fairly prolific. I do hope we've been helpful.
To funky monkey: I might get an adult so that I could avoid having to teach housebreaking. But socialising with other dogs could be a serious problem as I don't get out much, and even when I do, there's really nowhere I go where there would be other dogs and pets aren't allowed in most places. Then again, a few neighbours near me have dogs so I may be able to let mine socialise with them. I'll need to talk groomer's into account with the dogs, but was unaware that we'd need to go that often. Thanks. Letting them out that much isn't really a problem in the summer, but as I've said, could cause problems in the winter. Would it be possible for me to leave some kind of box, paper etc. on my balcony for him/her to use so that I didn't have to keep going up and downstairs? Of course, I'd have to do it when walking him/her but this might make things easier for quick runs. Good question about me finding the poop in the snow. If the paper won't work, what about the bags designed for that? I've heard different things about how much a small dog needs to be walked, from around the block to at least 20 minutes a day. So now I'm not sure. Why do dogs require feeding at set times?
Pyametra sounds like a horrible thing! Is there any way that it can be prevented or is spaying really the only way? Will the supplements stop the bleeding and how dangerous are they to the cat's health? I think I definitely want to go for a short-haired pet, no matter whether I choose a dog or a cat. Thanks for the tips on the litter and especially for those on bathing. I was unaware that the ability for them to wash themselves was that effective, and I suppose that since he/she will be inside most of the time anyway, he/she won't get that dirty. I've never heard of Royal Canin but will keep it in mind if I get a cat. Being able to eat and take care of their toileting needs on their own sounds like a great advantage of cats on the rare occasions when I do leave the house overnight. I thought that scratching was a hopeless cause. Glad to know it's not. Why are siamese cats more affectionate or how do they show their affection differently from other cats? What are Softpaws?
My boyfriend Spiros actually suggested a cat for me due to the bathroom issues. Mom's not against it, and I do live in my own place, but she's alergic to cat hair. It's really ashame, since she loves them dearly. Is there a breed that I could get that wouldn't provoke her allergies or at least, not that much?
I wouldn't mind giving them the whole carcus, but of course, I'd need to know what to do with it. Still, only eating meat isn't good for cats or humans. A little variety is always a good thing. Good to know about dogs and litter trays. That would really make my life easier. Awe, I love the description of how cats ask for affection! So neat. Mom says that she was told about the small dogs and cages by a breeder. I'm not sure who but that's what she said. It sounds like you're fantastic with your cats and like they love you very much. What are crusties? If I do get a cat, I'll definitely need advice on how to teach him/her the difference between play and rough behaviour.
To Shepherdwolf: thanks for the reassurance about the clawing. I could probably handle it a bit, since it's natural. I just don't like the idea of being jumped on and scratched in the face or going to pet the animal and being scratched or bitten when doing it. I've only actually had my face scratched once, and it was by a dog. Putting my hand in the bag while the dog is pooping and then having to touch the excrement sounds very disgusting to be honest, unless I was wearing gloves. But I don't mind the idea of litter. I'd like to avoid the mainstream brands of food, as I've said, but will look into the organic and high quality natural ones. Thanks to both of you for the chat offer. It means alot to me that all of you are going out of your way to help and I assure you that I'm weighing everything that I've read here and on other boards carefully.
Now we come to a question that I really wish I didn't have to ask. Which pet would be easier on me financially? I'm imagining a cat but could be wrong. Of course, this is not the only consideration but it is one that does come to mind.
Hi there, Tif
Ok, here goes for an answer to your questions.
You'll need to bathe your dog every 4-6 weeks if you want very little smell, but there''s no need to go to a groomer. If you have a placid animal, whether dog or cat, they should stand nicely for you in the bath or shower. Get a baby shampoo rather than one designed specifically for pets. They basically do the same job and are a fraction of the price. Even though I show my cats and their coats need to be in super condition, this is what I use.
You could attempt to leave paper on your balcony, but there's no guarantee they'll use it. You could work with training them, but you need to be aware that urine stains, so your balcony, when it soaks through the paper, will still bear the marks. Then when it comes to summer, the dog may not understand why it can't go there any more, so you will potentially have mess to clean up all year round. Take this into consideration in hot weather. How much will it stink before you know it's there or can find it? Bags are good if your dog will go on a leash, but they don't solve the urine problem. As for touching the poo, you don't do that. Basically, you line yourself up with the back end of the dog as it's going to the toilet, then when its done, you put the bag over your hand, kind of like a mitten glove, and grab the poo through the bag. you don't actually touch it, but the plastic does.
Trust me, a dog needs to be walked for about 20 minutes unless you get something really small like a pomeranian. They can cope with less, but should be taken out more frequently, so it all adds up to the same.
Dogs need feeding at regular times simply because you can't leave food down for them all the time. Imagine you miss your breakfast after having it every day for a week. You'd get pretty hungry, yeah? Same thing for a dog. If you feed them two meals a day, you should always keep them at the same time to avoid the dog getting too hungry. I feed mine once a day, but she's not small, and I've heard that they thrive better on littler portions more often.
Pyametra can only be stopped if you take the female to the vet for hormone injections. There are some supplements which say they stop the bleeding, but I'm not sure how effective they are. my friend swears by them, but as I'm breeding, the last thing I want is for mine to not have a heat cycle. As long as they're not in season, pyametra isn't an issue.
It's not that Siamese/balanese/orientals are more affectionate, it's just that they are much, much more vocal and in-your-face about it. Ok, I'll give you an example. My Persian, Tia, will come and jump up on the sofa beside me if she wants a cuddle. If I'm on the computer, she'll put her two front paws on my leg, nudge me, then wait for a couple of seconds. If I ignore her, she flops down beside me or goes off and does her own thing. If she was a siamese, she'd do something like this. Walk in front of my feet, talking to me in a quiet voice. I ignore. Jump onto the sofa with a slightly louder mew. I ignore. Headbut my arm. i ignore. Mewing gets louder plus front paws on my leg. I ignore. Cat climbs onto my knee despite keyboard there, tail in the air happily, mewing the whole time. I am forced not to ignore. I give affection. Cat flops over, possibly still talking to me, and is happy. Siamese and the others listed above are great if you don't mind cats talking to you. They are probably more distructive as kittens though, and are certainly much more active than Persians. They will need more toys and stimulation than a typical Persian, but they are very social, and usually a favourite of those who don't mind the drawbacks. I wish I had the patience for one.
Softpaws are little vinal caps that glue to the cat's claws with non-toxic adhesive. They can still flex, retract and grip with their nails as normal, but as the nail now has a soft cap on it, when they do scratch, which they still do, you get no damage to your furniture. They're easy to fit and cost $20 for a six month supply.
As for allergies, there are certain breeds which shed less. The Russian Blue is one of these, but to be honest, I wouldn't recommend them,as they're very, very active, can be distructive, and if not handled propperly as kittens, will likely grow up to be independent and not people cats. The Sphynx is a hairless cat that Shepherdwolf tells me feels kind of like a peach. It's a cat in every other way, but just doesn't have the fur. This means it won't shed. Allergies are caused by a compound in the cat's saliva rather than the fur itself, so if you rub yours over with a damp cloth before your mum comes, it shouldn't bother her hardly at all, with a sphynx, that is. Only problem though is that they're very, very expensive. If you want one, I'd suggest searching for people who breed, then asking whether or not they have a retiring breeding girl you could have. These cats usually range from 3-6, but are often spayed when you get them. As they've had a full cycle and birth though, this doesn't then cause problems in them, and honestly, with the older ones, they're often ready to stop going into heat anyway. Ex breeding girls are usually very cheap. If you buy any sort of a breed cat, it's common that in the contract you sign it says you have to provide proof that the cat has been fixed. You can choose not to, but if you do, you'll get no pedigree or paperwork for the cat.
Only eating meat is what a cat needs. They are obligate carnivores. This means, and I can't stress this enough, that they get absolutely no nutrition out of eating vegetables or anything that isn't meat. This isn't true of dogs, but cats are stuck with it which is why they can be prone to malnitrition if only fed one type of meat. If you're giving the carcus, try and do this from a young age, as it is more likely they'll chew the bones propperly if they've done it all their lives. If it'sa small carcus such as a rabbit, rat, mouse, etc, just give it to them whole. They'll rip it apart. If it's a chicken or something larger, you may need to cut it up for them.
Crusties are my name for the sleepy dust that gets in your eye. Persians are prone to runny eyes, so get the crusty stuff a lot.
you won't be scratched or bitten by an animal, particularly a cat, when you reach out to touch it, unless it's been abused, mistreated or is simply a little monster (and few are). you may get a nip or a swat when you first get it, but that's because it's nervous. If you're firm when this happens, it'll go away very, very quickly.
Hope this all helps
FM
You were saying you didn't particularly want to "buy" one of your animals, so I'll take this time to assure you that many "mutt" cats and dogs are very short-haired. Dogs like miniature Rotweillers and certain Chihuahuas have very very sleek hair that lies almost flush against the body and doesn't shed much, and while there are no cats which have the same type of hair, many short-haired cats are capable of living harmoniously with someone possessing a cat-hair allergy. I have a mild to moderate hair allergy and own two cats; one is a short-hair, the other is medium for the most part...I only rarely have issues with it. If your mom's allergy isn't a serious one, just make sure that where you're living with your potentially hairy animal stays clean; don't let hair stick to things and pile up, that's all. If her allergy isn't terribly serious, there should be no problems there. If her allergy is quite serious, your only option may be a very short-haired dog, I'm afraid.
Sphinx cats really do feel like peaches with wrinkled skin, but they're hideously expensive! Heh.
When I was explaining different things to you about dogs and cats, I was giving you worst-case scenarios in some cases. Hairballs, for instance; some cats just don't get them, while others may become prone to them. If you handle your animal well, be it dog or cat, you won't be hurt by it except maybe - and only maybe - in exuberant play. Even then, the chance is quite low.
If your deck is made of wood that's built so as to have large cracks between the crossboards, urine might very well go between them and fall to whatever is beneath it. Failing that, if there are cracks at all, dousing the deck with water from time to time will sluice the urine off by sheer volume. Thus, if you want your dog to eliminate its wastes on a wooden deck with gaps in it, it's entirely possible as long as you're willing to go out there from time to time when it's warm and sort of wash the deck off. Urine will stain, but so do a lot of other things - bird droppings, for instance - and in my own experience, people are usually used to dealing with it. It's one of the reasons people repaint or restain their decks, after all. In winter, when it's snowy, the snow will basically absorb a great deal of the urine, and when it melts the runoff will drip down and hopefully won't stain. I don't think staining will be too much of an issue for you, unless I'm misunderstanding something.
Do any of the people you -know actually have dogs? If so, and if there's a park or other public ground near your house, you may be able to socialize your dog - if you get one - very easily. Even if this isn't the case, you might actually find serious benefit in a small dog if you do, in fact, want to get out more. It'll definitely get you some exercise, at the very least, and will get you out of doors...sometimes when you don't really want to be out of doors, too, I'd imagine. How often you walk your dog, or how far, is really up to you; if the dog has the space or freedom to run around and blow off its energy - a back yard with a fence, for instance - this might very well be enough for it, on most days. Also, regarding the leaving down of food and whatnot: I cannot and will not invalidate what FM has said about feeding dogs at regular times as meaningless, but what I -can say is that many people I know and trust have never done this, and their dogs are still perfectly healthy. Dogs do like routine though...that point is absolute fact...so feeding them at near the same time every day is probably a good way to go, even if it isn't factually the -best way to do things. What I'm saying is this: if you can't do it or don't do it, your dog isn't going to suffer; if you can, though, so much the better.
I thought cleaning up dog poop using a little plastic bag would be nasty too. It's not wonderful by any stretch, but it's really not bad either. Your skin never comes in contact with feces; it's all protected by the plastic of the bag. The plastic is thin enough that you can discern some details of texture and all degrees of size, I'm afraid; temperature will also readily translate through the plastic. Your hands will be clean, though, as long as you do it properly...and if you follow the advice given many posts back, you'll be just fine. If you've got more than just a porch or a deck out back, and if your living space possessed a fenced-in back yard, you might be let off even easier on the whole, assuming whoever's living with you - or will be - is willing to help you go on a poop-scoop run every now and again. If the yard is fenced and the dog can't escape, let it loose to do its business, and it'll go where it wants. Urine definitely won't hurt grass, and poop can be scooped.
I wish you all the best, whichever animal you end up choosing.
Now I have heard that dogs are awful at learning the Greek language and cats cannot eat a good mousaka .. tricky choice.
I just want to once again thank all of you for your wonderfully lengthy and detailed explanations. I will still gather all of this information for safe keeping, incase anyone else is interested and I know that I sure learned alot, which is great, since I love knowledge. But I think I've made my decision. I'm going for a kitten. I talked with Mom about it too and though she didn't exactly sway me, she definitely put my mind at ease about her allergies, saying that she could come and spend time with me, so long as the windows were open. She even had a cat for ten years with them, which I didn't know, since I thought they started towards the end. She also pointed out the ease of dealing with toileting in a litter box versus having to walk a dog and cat's independence, which can definitely come in handy, as was said here, when I want to take an overnight trip. To be honest, I've always loved both dogs and cats and was always torn about which one I wanted. But every time I see a kitty my heart melts and I want him/her! My main fear was Mom, but now that I know she'll be okay and now that I have my own place, it takes the burden off of me. Since both of you answered my questions I'd like to at least reply to you, and if a dog question comes up, I'll ask it incase anyone else sees this thread and is trying to decide which furry bundle of joy to bring home.
To funky: I've never heard of cats being calm in a bath. I'll take your advice on not washing them, unless it's absolutely necessary, but it's still very good to know that some are okay with it as far as temperment. I didn't even think of the summer when it came to eurinating. So glad that I was wrong about the bags! It still doesn't sound great but it is doable. Now the feeding thing makes sense. But why aren't cats that way? That is, why can you leave food down for them and not have them eat it all at once or something? Mom, who's as concerned about animal wellfare and comfort as I am, assured me, as did all of you, that spaying and nutering is a good thing an keeps the animal alive longer. So thankfully, pyametra won't be a problem with my kitty.
hahaha You really made me laugh with the examples of how the different types of cats behave. I guess I'll have to think about that. I don't think I've heard a cat talk, as you say, but I love when they make noises and would prefer that over a mostly silent cat. Sure, it can be a pain when they constantly want attention, as when typing, but I'm also sure that it can have it's good points. I just don't want a cat that would prefer doing his/her own thing and hardly wants to play with me. Thanks for the warning on destruction with these. I'll also keep that in mind.
I totally love the idea of Softpaws and will definitely get them. That way, the cat has his/her claws and I don't have scratches on my furniture. How do you know when it's time to change them? I'm pretty sure that I have hyperhydrosis, meaning that my hands sometimes sweat excessively. It used to be almost constant but has calmed down recently. Still, while I adore the soft fur of a cat, and indeed, that's one of the things that attracts me to them, I don't want it sticking to my wet hands and getting all over. How can I find a compromise between a cat with alot of fur and one with almost none? Also, what is the difference between fur and hair?
Shepherdwolf was right when he brought up the fact that I refuse to buy my cat. No offence at all to breeders, but there are plenty of unwanted kittens out there and I'd love to give one a home. Since I consider him/her part of my family, I wouldn't feel right if he/she were bought. Mom suggested that I get a young kitten instead of a full-grown cat so that I could train him/her and he/she could know me from a very early age. I think this is a very good idea.
Wow! I didn't know that cats really only need to eat meat. So anything else, even fish, really doesn't really do anything for them? this may sound silly, but why do they like it so much? How can I help my cat with his/her eyes since I can't see them? I wouldn't want to hurt him/her. Is this something that I even need to consider? Thanks for the assurance on scratching. It makes me feel better. But are kittens more proned to do it than older cats?
To Shepherdwolf: I'm really happy to hear that about mutts. I also hear that they're healthier, which is another positive reason for getting one. But if I did go with an actual full-breed, can any of you recommend any particular kind? Of course, I realise that anything said will be a generalisation and that I must see the cat him/herself in order to know about his/her personality, but it would be good to know some things. Even if I get a mutt, knowing a little about his/her various breeds might be wise. I'll actually need to see the difference between a short-haired and medium-haired cat as far as length. Mom's allergy is tolerable. We once stayed over a relative's house, though, and we almost had to leave because she was having trouble breathing at night. That said, this couple had several cats and Mom definitely won't be sleeping here.
How do you gently but firmly teach a cat that no means no and the difference between rough and okay play? Also, what about the heat? I generally don't use an air conditioner unless it's really humid and stuffy. Will I need to use one more often for my cat? I know that they shed in the summer but I also don't want him/her to be uncomfortable.
My deck has cracks but not large ones. Still, it would probably work as you've described, since water goes through them. Most of my friends are either in different states or different countries. The One of them has four dogs, but she's in New Orleans and I'm in New Jersey. *smile*
I'd love to get out, but my mobility skills aren't that good, and I never really go out on my own unless it's in a car and directly to a place where I'll be meeting friends or learning things. I think that conscentrating on where I am, crossing streets etc. and on keeping track of a nonguide dog would cause me trouble. I always love to be out of doors in the summer, just not in the winter.
The backyard is huge. Even the deck itself is very large and everything is gated and cemented. Now since I've heard that you could walk cats, would I be able to go once in awhile with mine there or would that not be a good idea?
To wildebrew: lol! I'm sure my cat will love my souvlakia. You can make it with chicken, pork, lamb or beef, so there's plenty of meat there. *smile*
Hi there, Tiff,
If your back yard is gated and fenced so that a dog couldn't jump either, you could let a dog loose out there and it'd have a grand old time. As I said before, scooping up its poop would be the only problem.
If you're going to get a cat, you can very happily walk around outside with it on a leash, or use a combination of a leash and some rope or clothesline to give it an extremely long tether, and then just stay out there with it for awhile to let it roam around if you want. Some cats don't care to be outdoors, others will love you for it. Bear in mind that a dog or cat who spends a lot of time outtside will risk getting fleas and things a fair bit more, but a flea collar or flea treatment is easy and unharmful.
If it's a cat you want, I'd really seriously just get a mutt cat. Breeds usually run a couple hundred dollars for a pure-breed, at the very least. A few breeds you might want to stay away from are Bengals (because it's difficult to tell their temperament, you'd have to check how many generations removed they are from original stock because the closer they are the more unpredictable they are), and Himilayans/Balanese/Persians. Persians and the like are absolutely lovely cats, but they are not for the faint of heart. They're usually extremely placid and friendly, great apartment cats, but they have long fluffy fur, are often prone to runny/crusty eyes, seem to have a higher-than-average risk of PKD and such, and mostly possess flatter faces which make it harder for them to eat regularly. For some reason, certain cat fanciers decided that an ultra-flat face was the way to go while breeding Persians, regardless of the risks to the cat by having such a facial structure...they're trying to work to undo the damage, but it's a slow process. If you can find something that's got Persian in its ancestry somewhere, but doesn't have the flat face or excessively fluffy fur, you might be onto something. As I say though, mutts are the way to go. Look for how well the cat takes to being touched, stroked and handled in general. I actually do something with cats I don't recommend to absolutely anyone when I first meet them and am considering purchasing or adopting; I'll often do things which might very slightly annoy the cat - such as fluff up the fur on its belly or gently flick its ears - to see what it'll do. I don't keep doing it till I'm bitten or until the cat gets annoyed, but it's a very good way to determine what the cat will do if it's made uncomfortable. If you're a new person and you do something the cat doesn't like, that's two stresses in one; if the cat just shakes its head or rolls over, or maybe puts a paw on you and gives you a little kick, that's a good sign; stop the mildly annoying behaviour with the idea that you've won yourself a victory, albeit a small one. Ideally, you want a cat who doesn't mind being picked up suddenly, groped by mistake at times and generally handled, perhaps more than the average sighted person will typically manage. Some cats are really good with blind people, and will come to wiggling fingers or a repeated call of the same sound done over and over to associate a name or sound with the desire to come to you. Others are entirely allof in that regard, and never seem to fully grasp that we can't see them. Heh. If a prospective cat is not letting you touch it, is constantly jumping off your lap or off the place you're sitting on in order to join its friends or hide, it's not the cat for you; likewise, excessive gnawing or batting isn't a great sign, either, though if you have long hair this is partially exempt since kittens will absolutely adore it.
Russian Blue cats are supposedly very good for those who have cat allergies, and I must say that my allergies never kicked up because of FM's Blue when she still owned her, but I can say the same of a few mutts as well. American Shorthair and Oriental Shorthair are half-decent choices if you want a breed reference, but mostly fixate on temperament and hair density; a short-haired cat is still going to have a good amount of hair on it, it'll just be a sleeker feel overall than a long-haired cat.
Also, regarding temperature: cats can mostly tolerate a great deal of both heat and cold. I live near Toronto, and it gets about as hot here as in New Jersey, and as cold! I've never had to worry about my cat and how cold she gets, and I'm betting the same is true of my kitten; if it's hot, your cat might find a cool place to lie down - your bathtub, for instance, or the bathroom floor if it's not fully carpeted - and just camp out there. Make sure to keep their water cold when it's hot outside, if it's also hot in your apartment, and to make sure that if it's cold in your apartment in the winter, you give them as much warmth as you can. If they're constantly clinging to you when they weren't before, they're probably too cold and need a nest to curl up in, or a fiddle with the old thermostat to set them to rights.
I hope I've been of help. I'm glad you're asking lots of questions too...it shows that you're trying to be as responsible as possible, which is always a good thing.
I'll just have to experiment and see which kind of cat mine is, the type that likes the outdoors or the type who would rather stay in. But I'll take your advice on the flees. I wonder if there's a natural insecet repellent that's designed for animals?
Yyeah, I'll probably go for a mutt to avoid the problems mentioned, even if the shelter does have a pure-breed. *smile* I'm so glad that breeders are trying to eliminate the flat-faced trait. I hate when people create traits in animals strictly for appearance and when they don't take the animal's needs into account.
The good thing is that Mom will be going with me so can help me choose the right cat, since she'll be able to see the visual cues that he/she gives me. The rest, of course, I can tell on my own, but it helps to have a cat lover who knows some things about breeds etc. on hand. Thanks for the special blind advice i.e. cats who can handle being groped more than a sighted person would do or who can learn to pay attention to nonvisual things. I'm not sure how well I'll be able to determine this from such a brief encounter but I think that if a kitten comes over to me, perhaps jumps in my lap or purs, turns over, makes nice contented sounds when I'm holding him/her, he/she probably likes me. I could be wrong, since I've never done this, but it seems to make sense. I wouldn't like it if my kitten always jumped off my lap and ran to hide, no. I want one who loves being around me. Unfortunately for my new friend, I have short hair and don't ever intend on changing that. A sleeker feel sounds nice to me, since the silkiness will still be there but without the problems of long hair..
I never would've known that clinginess in the winter could mean that they're not warm, so thanks for the tip. While I can turn on and off my own air conditioners in the summer, the thermostat is downstairs and out of my control. So if he/she should become cold, what can I do to make him/her more comfortable?
Thank you for the compliments on my questions. It is a huge responsibility and I want to make sure that I really take the best care of my cat that I can. It's not all about me and that's the first thing that springs into my mind when I think about doing this. I want both of us to be happy with each other and with our living situation.
If the thermostat is out of your control and you notice that your cat is particularly cold, just take pains to cuddle it close or give it some blankets to nuzzle into. Chances are that if you yourself aren't particularly cold, your cat should also be fine; I've had numb toes inside this apartment because the heat hasn't been on, and my older cat just wanted more cuddle time...she was fine otherwise.
I don't personally know of any natural flea repellents, but some of the non-natural ones that are chemical-based really and truly don't hurt or bother the animal at all. Might smell a bit funny when they go on, but that's all...and even that's very transitory.
The signs of a contented cat when you meet it, in my opinion, are the following:
1. A willingness to be stroked, even if there is a bit of apprehension
2. A willingness to be handled (this is different, and pertains to how well the cat will take being held, moved around, maybe even flipped gently over onto its back)
3. How readily the cat purrs - this one is not an absolute maker, as some cats purr when they're nervous and some won't purr till they're 300% sure of you...but if you're got an affectionate little purr-ball, you're probably doing all right
4. How readily the cat openly shows -you affection (headbutting, nosing, potentially light nibbling, light licking, face-rubbing, kneading with toes/claws...this can hurt just a little if it gets bare skin, but not badly, it's a good thing if it happens)
You don't need all those signs to have a good cat or kitten, but look for most of them. The other ones are things (like the shine of a coat, the look of the cat's face and eyes, etc.) that would be helpful to have a sighted person along with you for.
Best of luck.
Wow! It never gets that bad here. If worse came to worst, I'd ask Mom to turn it up. The thing is that it costs money and I like it really hot and they don't. So I'll notice the cold much faster than my cat. Still, it's a good excuse to cuddle. i'm smiling thinking of those signs of affection. I hope I find one that has them, but somehow, I'm sure that I will. This is truly an exciting time in my life for sure and I really look forward to the changes that my kitten will bring. I'll keep you guys updated on what happens. To be honest, Mom said I could get one whenever. She just wants to see a little less sloppiness from me and so do I. I remember what was said about keeping things away from the floor and such. So I want to try to live as if there's a real kitten in the house for at least a month or so, just to make sure that I'm cleaning up properly and making sure that nothing's in the way that could hurt him/her. It'll only take a few minor changes but it'll be worth it when I'm sure of myself and can finally get down to that shelter. In the meantime, I've got all sorts of products, training and/or handling advice and general knowledge about cats to research.
Hi there, Tif
So sorry I didn't respond yesterday, but work was absolutely hectic, and when I did get home, I couldn't face more computer time. Here goess for more answers.
Cats in a bath: Although I say don't bathe them too often, particularly if you have a kitten, if you want to be able to bathe it when you need to, get it used to this when it's young. Please don't do it every week or anything, but maybe rub a wet cloth over it to get it used to being a bit damp, and shower it once every month or two. That way, when it gets bigger, the bath is not a scary thing. If you get a ping pong ball, put the kitten in the tub with the ball... The bathroom will never be a scary place again. In fact, you might get a lot of mewing to take it back in there, given that balls are so much fun. Shepherdwolf feeds his baby in the bathroom, and while I'm guessing this wasn't intentional so that he could bathe him, it had the added bonus that the baby is now tremendously affectionate in there and not scared at all.
Food: In the wild, when dogs kill, they gorge. They don't know when the next meal is coming, and it's common for them to go days without anything in their bellies. Cats on the other hand, hide their kill and return to it frequently until it's all gone or the meat has spoiled. This carries over into our domestic animals. Show a dog food and nine times out of ten it'll clear the bowl. Show a cat food and, provided it's used to having it left down, it'll not do the same.
Spaying and neutering is a good thing. I'd recommend letting a girl have her first cycle, as I think it matures them a bit more to have this once, and Shepherdwolf would recommend letting the boys mature a lot before they have the snip. I won't do this because I don't want them to spray in the house, but I guess once they've done it once, you can get them done straight after. Boys grow much bigger if they don't have the snip young, so if you want a lap full of fur rather than just an armful, leave him be until he starts squirting.
You can get talkative cats quite easily. A trick you can use is to give them wet food occasionally. If you're feeding an all wet diet, you can't leave the food down for more than a few hours anyway, but what I'm getting at is if their bowl is empty and you go to refill it, most cats will mew at you when they know the food's coming. It's very cute, actually. My girl is mostly quiet. She'll talk to herself, and me once or twice a day, and she'll shout when she's in season, but you can guarantee, every time the fish or chicken comes, I can have almost a full conversation with her, and she'll answer most of what I say... All until I put the dish down, that is. When they're doing this, if you use a repetative word like "what" every time they mew, they'll often get to a stage where you can say it and they'll talk anyway, regardless of food. Tia hasn't got to this stage yet.
Softpaws will fall off after four to six weeks. When they're not on the claw any more, you just replace them. Do note though, you'll still have to clip the cat's claws before replacing the Softpaws. Every cat, if it's an indoor one, should have its claws clipped. You don't need to take it to a groomer or a vet to do this. If you have someone sighted, all you need is a pair of nail clippers. Shepherdwolf uses regular ones, but I have cat specific ones. I tried the normal ones, but found that they pinched the cat's nail and she didn't like it too much. Regardless, all the sighted person has to do is snip off the clear part of the hook of the claw. Each claw has a pink triangle in it, and as long as you don't pinch that, you're fine. You should cut as close to it as possible though. Then slip the Softpaws on and you're good for another little while. It's worth noting though that your cat might not need these. Neither of mine do. I just clip and that's all, although I did take a nail file to Tia not so long ago, and what a difference this makes! you have to have a placid cat for this though. Tia didn't like me much once I was finished.
Sweating hands: Dust them very lightly with talc if they get really sticky, or do this when you're done stroking the cat. The talc will help the hair come off, and is not dreadfully harmful if it gets on the cat either, provided there's not loads of it. I talc mine when I'm preparing them for shows, and they don't mind a bit. They will lick it off though, so don't put loads on. Also, I try to go for one which is baby scented, but as little as possible.
Kittens: It is a good idea to get one young because you can mould it more, to some extent. However, kittens are playful. They chew things, they bat you, they run around like crazies, they need more of your time. Please don't be scared if he or she nips or scratches a little more than you'd like initially. As said before, kittens will do this. Like babies, they're working out what they can do, and they're not yet aware of their own strength. It won't hurt. It'll startle, and a firm "No" and a removal of your hand will help minimise the behaviour. Kittens learn to hunt by stalking, pouncing and playing with littermates and their mum, and when you get a kitten, you are sister and mummy all rolled into one. When mum has had enough, she'll smack the kitten, or pin him under a paw, or, if he's really annoying her, hiss at him. We can't smack them, but often a tap on the nose, a soft one mind you, is the equivalent. Go with the word no first though. When you withdraw your hands, kitten learns that his marvellous fun gets interrupted when he reaches a certain point of roughness. From this, he learns to moderate his behaviour so that he can still have fun, but do it at a level which means the game continues. If none of the above work, a short, sharp hissing sound will make him behave. Build up to this though, otherwise, if it's used all the time, it loses its effectiveness.
Fish: Cats like it because it tastes good. They'll eat it when they can get it, and it does them some good. The oils give them a beautiful shiny coat. You shouldn't feed fish more than once or twice a week though, but I have to admit, I'm guilty of feeding it much more than that.
Eyes: As a kitten, get your cat used to having its face touched. Run your hands over it, tickle his chin and cheeks, rub his face, very gently touch his nose, eyes and inside his ears. He won't like it, and will try and back away the first few times, but be persistent and very gentle and he'll learn to tolerate it. He'll also learn that you're not going to hurt him. Cats will only touch faces when they're greeting (this is a cheek rub), when they're socially grooming and when they're attacking. Your hand appears more like a paw than a tongue, so his initial response will be to cringe away to save his delicate eyes and face. Hold him steady by cupping the back of his head with your other hand and putting a finger under his chin. If he tries to pull away, let him, but don't lose your hold. Just move with him a little. This will stop him feeling trapped and will make him more compliant. If you get a really, really small one though, they're likely just to cry and hunch in when you do this the first time. If he is used to getting his face touched, if he ever does get the sleepy dust in his eyes, you can feel it and remove it just as you would from your own eyes, either with a fingernail or a damp, soft cloth. I go for the quick option and just pick it out. Tia still tries to pull away, but as I allow her to move until her head is in a position which she thinks is safe, she lets me do it. Most cats don't need help with their eyes, but as kittens, their mum cleans them, so they're more likely to get crusties for the first few months. This isn't anything to worry about.
As said before, kittens are more prone to scratch, but only because they're learning and playing. Rarely is their any malice in it.
If your cat isn't particularly timid, I'd actually recommend taking it out for a walk if you can train it to walk on a harness and lead. Never, ever, ever take your cat out only on a collar. They're too easy to slip, and the first time frightened kitten gets spooked, off he goes. Cats, particularly the outgoing ones, love to explore. When it's a kitten, try and take it to lots of new places for short periods, that is, if you want it to be able to go out with you comfortably when it's older. I use an Outward Hound Pet-a-Roo carrier for mine. It's a soft poutch that straps to your front. They sit in it and can look around at all that's going on, whilst still feeling safe and secure because they're snuggled against your chest. The small one is good for kittens, but you'll need the medium one if your cat stays in this when it's older. Your kitten shouldn't be allowed to come into contact with other animals, or taken out too much, until it's had all of its initial shots. This is for its own safety.
Just as a by-the-way, I am one of the breeders working to reinstate the old-fashioned, open, doll-faced Persians. The mum of my girl is flat, or flat-ish, and the trouble she has eating is incredible. She's got the biggest crusties, and she always has a snotty nose. It's horrible to see, and I'll never, ever breed to that standard. It disgusts me.
Shepherdwolf's advice on slightly annoying the cat plus what to look for in a good one is spot on. When we went to get Tia, he did this, and consequently, was able to give a much better account of her temprament than I was. I didn't realise the value of it until then. I was worried about taking her because she had been a touch feisty, and he was able to tell me that she'd be no trouble. I was wrong. He wasn't.
Temperature control: When it's really hot, make sure they have a cool place out of the sun that they can escape to. It's also helpful to put ice cubes in their water. This keeps it really cold, and also gives them something to play with! My Russian loved water. She'd actually go and sit in the dog's bowl on hot days, much to my, and my sofa's, dismay. When it's freezing outside, just give your cat more cuddle time. I'd definitely provide a big nest of blankets for them to burrow into. I'd suggest taking them to bed with you, but as you don't want them up there, this isn't an option. Just as a side note though, rarely are cats a problem when you have a partner over. My Russian liked sleeping at the bottom of my bed on the opposite side, but when Shepherdwolf stayed, she'd either wiggle in between us or find a spot in the living room to get comfortable in. Shepherdwolf's older cat, who slept with him religiously, just cuddled up against my leg when I took her spot in the bed, or flopped on top of me. Rarely do they make a fuss when their spot is taken, so if the only thing stopping you from letting it up there is this, don't let it.
I haven't found a natural insect repellant that works. Please, please don't rely on them. Just give a flee treatment once a month if your cat goes out a lot. Prevention is better than a cure.
Breeds in general, are fairly healthy. Shepherdwolf mentions that Persians are at higher risk of PKD. This is true, but if the cat has tested negative, this won't be a problem. Don't rule out breed cats. If you see one that you like, just tell us the breed and we can go through and let you know of any problems associated with it. Some do have problems, but many don't.
Definitely get your mum to check if the cat looks happy. It shouldn't have a runny nose or eyes, the ears should be clean, as should the bottom (a messy kitten means messy furniture).
Your kitten will have a ball if you leave things on the floor. It's just more stuff to play with. As long as there's nothing dangerous, a little mess won't hurt it. Just don't let it at food etc, because that can be harmful. Plastic bags, clothes, shoes, wires, all of them make for great games. They may chew though, so keep an ear out for what the little monkey's doing.
I hope some of this helps.
FM
Don't ever worry about not answering right away. Most of us have lives and when work is added it's even more understandable. That said, wow! What an answer! The cloth sounds like a good compromise. I like the idea of the ball, and I must admit, I love sports myself. Ah, now I understand the food! Thanks. I started looking for all natural cat food and found several different kinds. Most seemed to have turkey or chicken as the meat and many included rice or vegetables. But at least one brand had several options that were pure meat. Some also had fish. Is it okay to get the kind of food with meat and rice and/or vegetables in it or should I just stick mostly with meat and save the other things for special treats? If so, then how often should I vary the meat? Also, is it best to feed wet or dry? I'm leaning towards wet to be honest. I've also seen things labeled for kittens, adult cats and seniors. Still others said that they were good for the entire life cycle. Is this just a marketing scheme or should I really pay attention to what the labeling says with regard to age? I've also found a cat litter called Feline Pine. It's all natural and the company supports adoption from shelters and education for people who potentially want cats in their homes. What is the difference between "regular" littler and schoop? Have you ever heard of this brand, and if so, is it a good one? If not, can you recommend another natural brand?
Should I ask at the shelter for a kitten who's either had her first cycle or who's had his first spray? In the latter case, will this lead to a more strong-scented urin? Thanks for the tips on talking. That will be so neat! More importantly, thanks for the advice on the wet food. I don't want it to spoil or to lose it's nutrients. I'm not a health nut when it comes to myself but I want the absolute best for my kitten, particularly in the food department.
I'll definitely ask Mom to help with the clipping if I don't go to a groomer. I'd rather use the cat clippers, since they're designed for this and I don't want to cause my pet any discomfort messing around with the regular ones.
I wonder if there's anything that I could use in place of talc? When my hands get really bad, the powder won't do a thing except get on them and I really don't want my cat licking that stuff. Thank The Gods, the sweating has really calmed down lately, so I may not need to worry about it as much.
Now that I know this, I think I'll be able to handle the kitty anticks much more easily. It just means that I'll have a hyper ball of energy and alot more to look forward to in my life for awhile. At least I'll get away from the computer and move around more often. How long does this stage usually last? The tips on training were really cool. I'll definitely try the "no" and backing off with my hands first. I think that touching my kitten will also help me, since I've always had a fear of being too rough or of accidentally hurting an animal when I did this. But now that I know that a gentle hand is okay, I feel alot better about it and think it will help me bond with my kitten more.
I would never take my cat out without a leash. Is that what you mean by lead? In any case, losing him/her would be devistating to me, since I couldn't see where he/she went and all sorts of horrible thoughts would be going through my mind. I'd much rather he/she stay close to me or at least have a long rope or something so that he/she could roam but would still be attached to me. What kinds of places would be appropriate? I really don't get out much myself and am not sure where cats are allowed. Perhaps, the park might work. The carrier sounds like a great idea. Huge hugs to you for helping with the breeding of healthy cats! Poor baby... I hate hearing things like that.
Do you suggest that I try the slightly annoying behaviour or should I let Mom work more on that, since she can see the cues and is more experienced with cats? I never thought of the ice in water. Cool! I never knew that cats could love water that much. I'm really happy to know that cats are good when human company is around and wish to use the bed. In those cases, would you recommend getting a cat bed? Do I still need to do the flee treatment if he/she doesn't go out much? Usually, I don't have that much of a mess. I'd just be concerned that there might be something small on the floor that could cause choking.
Hi there, Tiff,
If I were you, wanting to adopt a kitten, I'd be the one to try and mildly annoy it to see what happened. The advice of others may have a hand in whether or not you adopt a particular animal, but ultimately it's going to come down to you. With what we've told you here, you should be more than capable if you keep it in mind. It's a lot of info, and a great deal of it might not be of a lot of use till later, if at all; just roll with it and you'll be fine.
Incidentally, I don't actually recommend letting a male squirt before getting him snnipped. The older a male gets, the greater are his chances of beginning to spray or squirt; once they start, they often don't stop, so it's kind of a race of how big you want the cat vs. how early he sprays. If you want to play it safe and wish to avoid the smell of spraying, get it done fairly young; he's not going to be a runt if you do it that way, and I've seen some appreciably-sized tomcats who were neutered early. I'm not in support of letting them start...I simply want a larger cat, that's all.
The argument of wet vs. dry is quite a long-standing one. Lots of perfectly healthy and happy cats eat dry food, but wet food is probably more healthy for them overall. Some people see this the same way they'd see, for instance, broccoli being more healthy for you than fried chicken. We, as people, eat stuff we probably shouldn't all the time, and so will cats; in the end, you want the cat to have a healthy diet...whether it's dry or wet, you'll probably make do.
A kitten's playful phase is not time-dependent. Some kittens stay kittenish for months, while others grow out of it very quickly. Some go through phases, too, where they'll seem to have grown out of their playfulness but are still prone to odd fits of it, or are utterly crazy for a certain item or type of play. That will truly depend on the cat.
A leash is a lead in Britain, to clear up that bit of confusion. I know, I know, they're odd. *grin* When I say "take a cat out on a leash" I mean a leash and harness...for me, the combination while walking a cat sort of goes without saying. You can get on without the harness but it just isn't wise.
I did actually try and feed my kitten in the bathroom in part because of the fact that I wanted him comfortable in there; the result - amplified by his natural personality, no doubt - is that he's near his most vocal when I go in there, and will sometimes even try to get into the tub with me before I turn the shower on! He's been wetted but not entirely bathed yet, and while he doesn't love it, I haven't been bitten, scratched or cried at yet either. Repetition of mildly to moderately unpleasant events, in small doses, is key when a kitten is young if you want them to accept said treatment later on.
Cats, in particular, don't require the same outdoor/mobile socialization that dogs do. If you want to do that, it's fine, but if you don't, it'll probably be more than happy in your home. Just give it lots of love and attention, and you'll be set.
Hi there, Tif
If you're serious about having nothing fbut the best for your kitten, then steer away from the wet foods that have rice and other such in them. As I mentioned before, the fact that they're obligate carnivores means that they get little to no benefit from that kind of diet. That being said though, my dry food that I feed, and my cats thrive on, does have some rice in it. Research says it's no good but I don't see any harm. When I feed wet, I feed nothing but meat. I don't buy cat food wet at all. I just buy the raw meat and cook it myself. But then I'm not planning ever to feed only raw food. If you do go to feeding wet, or even mostly wet, and want an all meat diet it is really, really important to read decent articles and find out what you have to supplement it with in order that your cat gets the right nutrients. Torine (I think that's how you wpell it) is just one of those which, if they don't get enough of, will lead to major, major health problems. Please do your reading before you feed all wet. I compromise. My girls, or should I say girl (one of them won't touch wet) have a meat feed in the morning. Tia gets about a tablespoon. I leave dried down all the time, and she fills up on that. I don't supplement my meat with anything, but because I leave the dried down, she gets all of her essential nutrients because they're in this. I have the best of both worlds that way. The cat has wet raw food which is better for it, plus the dried for nutrients, snacking whenever she wants, and keeping down the bad teeth which can result from wet. As a by the way, vegetables will never be a special treat for most cats. They don't bother with them.
Kitten food has much higher levels of zinc in it which is pretty essential for their growth in the first few months at least. It's recommended to keep them on a kitten food for the first year, and I try and do that. Others switch their cats off it when they're four or five months old. I just worry though that they're not getting enough of what they need on an adult food. Senior food is usually easier to chew and has a lower calory count, as the cat will be less active at this stage.
Feline Pine is wonderful if your cat will tolerate it. Many don't, because the kernals are a totally different shape, texture and smell to what they're used to. I tried it and Tia, who used the tray even in the face of my Russian who'd poo on the floor right outside it, got so upset that she peed on my sofas and everything. I put a layer of it in the bottom of the tray and covered it up with her usual stuff and she was fine. She still didn't like it much, but she used it. The litter goes to dust when they pee on it, and unfortunately, that often gets stuck on their feet. They'll track it further over the house, but it does smell much better than normal stuff, and tends to last an awful lot longer too. I really wish my lot had used it. There's a lot of contraversy over clumping vs non-clumping litter too. I don't use clumping with mine at all. I've heard too many horror stories of the clumping causing massive digestive problems, particularly in young cats. When the litter gets stuck to them, they lick it and often ingest it. Clumping litter swells to 12 times its natural size when wet, and becomes tar-like and difficult to move. You can't even flush this stuff in big clumps. Many kittens in particular will roll in their litter when very small, and even when bigger, may try to eat it as they're still exploring everything with their mouths. Now, this being said, I know many kitten owners who use clumping litter and have no problems, but I don't want to take the risk with mine. Clumping is good because it doesn't smell nearly as quick as you're removing the pee. non-clumping will stink quicker.
There's a brand of litter called Yesterday's News in the UK, and I think they're in America too. It's made from recycled paper and is apparently pretty good. Most breeders use it, but I haven't tried it, so don't know how it performs.
If a kitten has had its first cycle, it's mostly not a kitten any more unless it's precocious. They don't start until usually about eight to nine months old, although some do start as young as three months. Either way, just get a youngster if there's no clear choice of which one you like best, let her have her first cycle with you, then, once she's stopped calling for a boy, take her in and have her spayed. Don't worry, they don't leave a mess when they bleed. Cats are incredibly clean. I don't know if I've mentioned this before, but when Tia calls, and believe me, she does this about every two weeks, strongly, she can come and sit her bum flat right down on top of a pure white blanket, and there's not a trace of blood or staining when she gets up again. They clean incessently when they're in season, so she won't track it all over the house as a dog would. If you get a boy, follow Shepherdwolf's suggestions. The concentration of the urine doesn't alter in girls except when they're in season, and in boys, will lessen slightly when he's had the snip. Male urine will always smell more than female though.
Powder is fine on cats, Tif. Trust me. Mine get it frequently and it hasn't done them a bit of harm, because I use the baby powder. This has been made safe just in case a baby, as they always do, sticks its tongue out when it shouldn't and gets some on there. If you're worried, put the powder on your hands when you're done stroking them. This will take the hair off your hands, and won't get on the cat if you're done with petting when you apply it. Even if it does though, I promise you, it's not going to hurt them.
A leash/lead and harness are essential if you want to take your cat out. Start with the house, teaching it to walk with you where it's comfortable. Then go to the garden and let it explore. Many cats don't get past this stage, but a very few will be inquisitive enough that they'll want to come with you on walks. the same restrictions apply to cats as dogs. You can't take them into shops etc. They can go anywhere a dog goes, but it's worth remembering that where there are dogs, there's a chance of chasing. I wouldn't recommend taking it to a dog park, for example.
I'd say both you and your mum do the annoying behaviour, but it's more important for you to do this. Every cat's reaction is different, and it's about what you can put up with, not your mum.
Don't bother with a cat bed. I've only ever seen one cat who'll use them. Most prefer to be with the humans or stretched out in the most unlikely of places; the window sill, on top of a wardrobe, anywhere and everywhere the sun falls. If you're content to let them on the bed, most will snuggle there all day. I'm a bit strict about this. Mine get on the bed when I'm there, but if I'm not, I shut my door. I don't want them up there all the time, and I work hard to enforce it. My girl's a lovebug though. She wants to be where humans are, so if I was around, I'm sure I could happily leave the door open and she'd still come and lie in the middle of the living room floor where the sun puddle falls. No, when human company is over, you might have a furball snuggling in between you, or one behind your knees or draped around the top of your head, but most cats just take an extra person in the bed as an extra set of hands to cuddle them.
If they don't go out often, you probably don't need to do the flee treatment religiously. However, better safe than sorry, i say.
The thing to cause choking would need to be very small. Kittens, unlike puppies, don't usually swallow things. It took me ages to learn this, and I was so, so worried when I got my first baby, but it's honestly true. Yes they'll chew, yes they'll attack and play with anything, but they don't often swallow.
Hope this helps
FM
To Shepherdwolf: yes, you guys have definitely told me alot and that should help. lol Now I've got to sort everything out into categories and start taking notes. It might be a good idea for me to see smaller and larger cats to see what I want, but playing it safe is probably a good bet, since I probably won't be that choosey. It's really about the health of the kitten, and so long as that's not compromised in any way, I'll be happy.
Playfulness sounds enjoyable. I'd much rather that than sitting there all day and doing nothing... like me. lol I'm usually extremely good when it comes to British English and prefer it to American in many cases. I'm not sure how "lead" slipped my attention but now I remember. *smile* I don't know anything about harnesses for cats. Do they make different types? I know they do for dogs, but even then, the ones that I know about there are all for guide dogs.
I like the idea of small doses of generally unpleasant things to get the kitten accustomed to them. How are cats when it comes to loud noises, sudden movements (I probably won't make those but a guest might) and being left alone? Of course, I don't intend on leaving mine alone for a long time or anything but if I go out for a few hours, or even if I go away for a night, once the cat is a bid older, I'd like him/her to at least know what it's like so he/she doesn't become frightened or destructive. At what age is it safe to leave a kitten alone? What other things are important for him/her to learn at that early age?
I've been thinking of something else as well. Please let's not turn this into a debate about smoking. I'm strictly interested in it as it relates to cats. I occasionally smoke cigarettes. It could be once or twice a day for awhile or there could be a gap of a few days or weeks in between, since it's all about enjoyment for me. I would never ever smoke in front of the cat, and always go outside when I do it. But will he/she be affected by the smell of smoke on clothing or on my hands? I don't want to cause any discomfort and can easily switch to my electronic cigarette, which has no fire, smell or residue and which can be smoked indoors, if that's the case. But I also smoke an arghile (water pipe) every weekend, and that's always done inside. The scent of the tobacco is very different from that of cigarettes, very sweet and pleasant. Still, would it affect the cat, even if I made sure that he/she was safely in another room until I finished? What about the lingering odor? What about the occasional incense or candle?
To funky monkey: oddly enough, another person just told me to completely avoid wet food. She was told this by her wholistic vet. The idea of not giving enough nutrition just because I didn't do enough research scares me. So I'll probably either do what you do. Thanks for confirming that. I'll remember that about cooked meat, since it would probably make for a nice occasional treat i.e. I'm eating this so will give a bit to my kitten. Now that I know that there really is a difference, I'll start out on kitten food.
When you say "what they're used to" do you mean from the shelter? If not, then can I start him/her off with Feline Pine so that he/she gets used to it early? I really have a serious problem with using litter made from strip mine clay with added chemicals and scents. If I do that,, with the exception of possibly using it while weaning the kitten off of it, I might as well feed the cheapest food I can find too. So if I don't use Feline Pine, what is another natural and safe litter for me to try? Gods, now I'll be having thoughts about that clumping stuff! How horrible! My friend said that Yesterday's News doesn't do anything when it comes to odor but she didn't say how it performed otherwise. Is it safe, considering that there's probably ink on it?
Thanks for the explanation on bleeding. Handling that seemed like an undoable task for me, since I can't see it and was imagining a mess. Awesome about the powder. I didn't know that baby powder was specially made. That makes me feel alot better about using it.
Good to know that he/she will be satisfied in the garden, cause I hardly ever go on walks. My family's not big on it, they drive everywhere. And if we ever did walk anywhere, it would usually be to a local shop or restaurant. But with Spiros, I might go down to the river so that we could watch the ducks or just enjoy being there. So that might work.
Good point about the behaviour made by you and Shepherdwolf. Why are you personally strict on the bed rule? Will she ruin the bed or something while you're not there? I still think it would be a bit awkward to have a cat in the bed along with my boyfriend, especially during certain times. *smile* That's where my restrictions will have to come into play. I think it will take me a long time to realise that too about choking, but thanks for pointing it out. I'm sure I'll eventually get it. Glad to know I'm not the only one who freaks out at stuff like that.
I heard something very interesting from a friend yesterday. She said that it's usually a good idea to get kittens in pairs so that they're less lonely, have someone to play with and are more loving towards their human. But I'm honestly not sure if this is a good idea for me, since this is the first time that I'll have one in my life and since I need to work out the kinks. What do you guys think?
Hi there, Tiff,
I can't answer everything, but here goes on the stuff I know.
Kittens, alone or in pairs: this depends utterly on the cat. I'd say the slight majority are totally okay being alone, and another fairly large group will tolerate it if they must. Fairly few cats absolutely must have attention, but such cats do exist and aren't impossible to come across. You'll only figure this out when you go out for awhile and come back to signs that your kitten or cat is upset. Incidentally, I left my three-month-old home alone with another cat for almost four days about a month ago and there was absolutely no problem, so they're usually okay after three months or so as long as they've got food and water, a clean box to use and aren't being threatened outright by other animals.
I have known dozens of people with literally hundreds of cats over the years; most of them used clumping litter, and not a single one I've ever experienced ever reported that it caused respiratory issues. This doesn't mean it isn't possible, but it fairly strongly suggests that the horror stories are affecting you - and perhaps others - mostly because of the "I never imagined!" sort of shock value they possess. My cats use clumping litter and always have; I've never had an issue, and while I admit it might be possible, I don't see that it should make your choice for you as to which brand of cat litter you get...not unless you're planning to one day have kittens yourself, that is. Most weaned kittens won't roll in litter...I got mine at nine weeks, and he did several things that were typical of kittens but never actually rolled in his litter. If he ever tried eating it I had no idea.
People who smoke have cats with no problems. Just don't blow smoke in the cat's face on a repeated basis, and you'll be fine. Your arghile shouldn't pose a problem either.
I think the biggest issue about harnessing a cat is the size of the harness, mostly. I don't know tons about this, but so long as the cat fits in it and isn't being pinched, but also can't get away, you're probably all right.
As for a cat in bed? Some people just don't like hair in bed with them in any way, either because of breathing issues or pure personal taste. I don't really care either way, myself, but if you don't want your cat in bed with you at any time, you'll have to enforce it and not let up on it. If it's only certain times which will be problematic, if you've got no other problem besides those times with having a cat in bed, then just put the cat out and close the door when you're up to that. Problem solved.
lol I don't think I'll be adopting this one any time soon... though Mom's got animal print stuff all over the place in her house. I should show her this one for a laugh.
lol Maybe, I should get a dog like one of these.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L28CnhmeAD4
I like the idea of a cat, that's my type of animal. Like everybody's saying they're easy to care for too. Plus, have my personality too, I was thinking you were going to do dog because from what I've seen a dog is more friendly than a cat, but I guess it all depends?
Tiff
Harnesses for cats are fairly standard. They're made from lots of different materials, but you're ideally looking for a soft, comfortable webbing type if you're going to use it often. The harness straps around the cat's chest and behind the front legs and should be loose enough only that you can get two fingers between it and the cat.
If you make loud noises and sudden movements when the cat is a kitten, it won't mind them when it's bigger. This depends on the cat though. Some are incredibly timid and will run every time. Others will sit on the back of the sofa while you vacuum. It depends on the individual.
It's safe to leave a kitten alone from about 3-4 months onwards. If they're very clingy with you, start by leaving them for short periods, and work up from there. When you first get the cat or kitten, it is going to be quite scared. Older cats will prefer to be left alone at this stage, but a kitten, if you go out, may well cry and fret. They're used to being with littermates and mum, and to be left alone at all, let alone in a strange place, is a very new experience.
Smoking: You say you would never ever smoke in front of the cat. Why not? Many people do this, and their cats don't turn into smokers because they see the humans doing it *smile*. Don't worry about this. Unless the room is very small and shut in, and you're chain smoking, the occasional bit of smoke, whether inside or out, won't bother your cat in the slightest. They may not cuddle you when you're smoking, but other than that, there'll be no appreciable difference.
Candles are usually fine, but be very careful of these initially. Cats are fascinated by fire/flames, and a kitten will probably try and play with it. I know people with cats who have candles just fine, but I don't use them.
A lot of people think wet food should be avoided because of the damage it does to the cat's teeth. I'm surprised a holistic vet recommended this though. I have one thing to say to that. What would they do in the wild? I don't believe that they come across bags of dried food all that often, nor that even a domesticated cat who has regular, unsupervised outside access would turn their nose up at a juicey mouse or bird and say, "Ew, I'm holding out for the dried, thank you very much".
Be wary of what you give your kitten. Unless you want a food pest, I wouldn't feed it from the plate. I occasionally give my girls scraps, but only if they're not hassling for it. Also, a lot of people food can be harmful. Only give them meat, and only then if it's plain and not covered in seasoning or sauce. You can give them fish this way too.
What they're used to means the litter they've been on before. If you really want to use Feline Pine, get a bag of that plus the stuff they've been using up until this point, then make the switch gradually. Each time you change the tray, add a little more pine and a little less of the litter they're used to. The first tray you put down should be their normal litter though. The kitten has had an awful lot of change in its life, so for the first while, keep its food and litter familiar. Yes, you can change, but as with litter, change the food slowly too. It's a lot for a little cat to take in, even a big one, so be patient. yes, you may have to buy the crap to start off with, but in the end, you'll get it using what you want, or in most cases you will. Sometimes they just are stuck in their ways. I remind you of my girlies and the pine litter. Sometimes what you want just isn't an option with cats. Yesterday's News is fine, and you can try the baking soda to kill the odour. I don't know how well it'll work though.
I'm strict about the bed because i have asthma. The longer she's up there, the more hair she leaves behind her on the blankets and the more it aggravates my chest at night. I don't refuse her being up there when I am because I know she values company, and given that I'm at work for most of the day, I figure if she doesn't sleep with me, she'll hardly see me. I enjoy having a cuddlebug to sleep with anyway. If you don't want them on the bed at certain times, just give them a nudge off with your foot, or, if they're pretty insistent, put them in another room. My Russian only bothered me once, but she got the hint pretty quickly. Kittens may see a tangle of bodies as an excuse to jump on them and play, but if this happens, well, doors are pretty good at getting in the way of a flying furball when it tries to get to you.
If you get two kittens, they'll definitely burn off energy together. Many cats cope well on their own. If you were going to be out at work I'd say get two, but as you're at home a lot, you have the time to devote to one. You just have to remember that you're mummy and sister, and devote a lot of time to play and stimulation. Cuddles are great, but they're not all that a little one needs. if you're worried about it, get two. They will get into more mischief, but on the flip side, they won't do it as often as one will. Having two is just as bad as having one in terms of the life adjustments you have to make, so there's not much difference. I poo poo the idea that two makes them more loving though. In some cases it can, but in others, they're more interested in each other than the human, so again, this depends totally on the cat.
Just as a last word, please don't rule out an older cat. Yes it would be nice to have a kitten that you can train yourself, but there are some gorgeous older cats out there who are perfect little houseguests. many of the older ones get overlooked in shelters because everyone wants a youngster, and many good cats are wasted. I got my Tia when she was three, and I've had no problems with her at all, even though I didn't get her when she was young and trainable. An added bonus here is that you know the personality of your cat. With a kitten, you never know what you're going to get, but an adult has already done all of its growing up, so you can see the finished product for what it is.
FM
Okay, first, I'll answer you and then, I've got something to tell you! I probably won't be using the harness too often but I might as well get something like that, since it sounds the most comfortable. I would be scared if I were a child and left alone or brought to a strange place too. So I can understand that completely. Perhaps, if I really do need to go out somewhere for a little while (usually no more than three hours at the most) I could leave him/her with Grandma.
I just don't think it's a good idea for him/her to be inhaling smoke. But I'm glad the arghile or the scent of cigarette smoke on clothing etc. won't cause problems. If anything, I'd go alone into the bathroom, open the window and shut the door if I smoked inside and that's only on really cold days. This is one of the only rules that Mom has, no smoking cigarettes in the house, with the above exception. lol If he/she asks me for a smoke one day, I'll be a million heir! How cool! Ooh! Not good about the candles! Maybe, it's better, if I light them at all, to do it when someone sighted is around so that the cat can become accustomed to it and learn that it's not a toy. I'm assuming it's the same with incense.
To be very honest, I was thinking along the same lines as you about the food, but I figured that since my friend heard it from a vet, the vet would know more about cats than I do. Glad that logic won out here. I know that there's still nutrition to consider, and that's very important, but it didn't really make sense that a cat absolutely shouldn't eat wet food given what they eat in the wild. Thanks for the warning on giving from the plate. Perhaps, I could set some meat aside and give it to him/her after I ate.
Yeah, I'd never want to cause even more dissruption in the cat's life by immediately changing his/her litter or food. Does the time to get used to the new one, assuming that he/she does, varry with the age of the cat? If he/she is very young, must the same procedure be followed?
Ah, now I understand about the bed. lol I donno. I might wind up with Supercat! the one who can turn him/herself into a mist and creep under a shut door... haha
Two kittens is definitely something to consider, though the cost might be more as far as food, vet care etc. I really don't know and think I'll discuss this with Mom. Of course, she won't be the one who makes the ultimate decision, but she knows me, sometimes better than I know myself, and I think that she could give me some valuable input. Yes, I certainly have alot of time on my hands. So that could be an advantage and make getting just one easier.
I was looking at Craigslist, out of curiosity last night and found what seems to be my dream cat.
http://newjersey.craigslist.org/pet/
Look down the page and you'll find an incredible add entitled "SUPERB STAR Kitty (age 1) - garrulous, enthusiastic, GREAT COMPANY!" I din't give the link incase it gets deleted and maybe reposted. Here are some of the highlights, summarised in my own words with some comments. Their description is far superior to mine. He is currently in New York, in Ulster County, which I later learned is about two and a half hours away. He's a year old, has been nutered, tested negative for FIV and FeLV. He was saved by a shelter from a truly horrible living condition with many other cats in a trailor. He's also a talker, which you all know that I like. He's got soft plush dark-striped fur, with alot of white and a mahogany-coloured nose. He still loves to run around the house, so it's not as if I would be getting a cat who's totally grown out of his kitten phase in that regard. He's also great with people and other cats and loves cudling and following people around. This is cool for me, since I won't have to wonder where he is. He doesn't like to be held for long periods of time, but he's not the type to immediately jump off your lap either, which is a nice compromise. He's also great about taking supplements, which can come in handy if I ever need to give him any.
The woman with whom he's living works with an organisation called Cause 4 Paws. Their base is actually in New Jersey, quite close to me. At any rate, I liked how she asked about which foods would be used, views on declawing and living situation in her add. Aside from the title and wonderful description of the cat, this is what drew me to this add once I read it. I knew that he was being well cared for. She, in turn, loved my attentiveness and willingness to research everything, the fact that I was insistant on feeding all natural foods and using natural litter, despise declawing and want to give this kitty the best home he could have. We spoke via e-mail as well as on the phone and I asked her a bunch of questions to see if I could find anything wrong with this cat, but all I found were more amazing answers. I could tell from her voice that she was being very honest with me. He's been tested and also vaccinated. Despite the situation in which they found him, he doesn't appear to be traumatised in any way. He doesn't bite, spray, scratch or jump and isn't destructive, though, of course, I'd need to keep very small and/or breakable objects away from him for safety reasons. Nothing scares him, including loud noises, new people or other cats and he's totally great about being touched. In fact, he loves having his tummy rubbed and just flopping down next to someone. He's litter trained and has even been weaned off the bad food to high quality stuff. He's a short-haired tabby cat with very tactile fur, and incredibly, he hasn't shed during the entire four days he's been with her. When I heard that he's only been there since Tuesday, I had my doubts. But she said that he instantly warms up to people and that the woman who rescued him, who's also with that organisation, adored him from the moment they met but couldn't keep him.
All in all, it honestly sounds as if I've found the perfect cat. We've made arrangements for him to come here next Saturday for a trial run. In the meantime, the woman who's caring for him now will keep an eye on him to see if he exhibits either undesirable behaviour or something more pleasurable ontop of all the rest. The woman who rescued him has to go to New York in any case and lives close to me, so she'll drop him off on her way back home. If, for whatever reason we don't click, she will take him back, but I'm praying that this won't be the case. If it is, however, there are other rescued cats near me from them that I could check out and the woman in New York said that regardless of which cat I get, or from whom, she's willing to help me with any questions that I might have or with advice that I might need.
I can't believe this is all happening so fast! I wasn't even expecting to really find a cat who would interest me on there, let alone one who sounds too good to be true. But why not? After all, it's where I met my boyfriend Spiros and we've been together for three years now.
Wow, Tif, this is great news! I wish I'd known you were in NJ though. There's an absolutely unbelievable cat sanctuary there called Tabby's Place, and they adopt out cats too. They're cageless, and they take in cats from other shelters who would have been euthanised otherwise. Their motto is that they never, ever turn away a cat, and about 25% of their cats are special needs. They keep them from birth till death if necessary, and it's all funded by public donation. It's amazing. The link is tabbysplace.org. They have a blog too. If it doesn't work out with this one, do have a look atthese, as they, more than others, really will put the adoption fee to good use. They're also very honest about their cats' good and bad habits.
I really wish you all the best with your new cuddlebug. Do keep us informed on what happens, eh?
As far as changing food and litter goes, it depends on the cat. I could change litters easily with my russian, but my persians take weeks. Just go slow and steady with it. Better that than poo on the floor. Oh, I'm so excited for you!
FM
Wow. The description of that place actually made me cry! How incredible. I really love people like them, those who help animals and even keep them when no one else will. I'll pass the link around to my friends on Facebook and elsewhere. Maybe, someone would be willing to donate to them (I would if I could) or to adopt from them. I'm really excited too.
Congratulations on the prospective cat! I do hope it works out well for you.
One thing to add to the thing about dry vs. wet food: a cat who eats what it kills in the wile will also eat the bones, which means that the bone fragments will scrape their teeth a bit. Even if it's not intentional, it'll kind of keep them cleaner than just meat would do; that's why I say that wet food is worse for their teeth on the whole...most actual wet food is just soft, has no bones or hard bits for them to clean their teeth on. Dry food, by its nature, does all of this, even if it's bulked out with things a cat's body can't use, so it's definitely a bit of a trade-off as I see it.
Heh...you'd said you were in NJ way earlier on in this thread, I think. I've always found it weird that New Jersey is an hour from almost everywhere. That aside though, I hope this guy works out for ya!
Hi this is little foot.
There this things called cat scratchers that your cat could scratch on.
I would think a cat is easer to train because they have a lidder box where they could use the bathroom in.
As far as a dog no you would have to clean up there poop especally sance you live in a appartment.
I do not think that you want to clean up poop how grose.
I really do not know about the hole medician thing but as far as those thing I do no.
Talk to you later and hope this helps.
So the cat has been with me since about 12 something yesterday. To be honest, we weren't sure if he'd come at all. Joanie brought up a very important point that Mom had completely forgotten about when we were discussing all of this. Cats jump. So, she said, he would jump on me, on the counters, on the table when I was eating etc. So she suggested taking me to the shelter and getting me a little dog. Mom said that I wouldn't have to walk it (a fact disputed here and by Sid when I brought it up yesterday) and that I could take it wherever I went if I went away for a long time or even just to a restaurant, since sighted people take their pet dogs and put them in little carriers/boxes. I then went up, had a cigarette and thought really hard. I called Sid to tell her about my concerns. We discussed the pros and cons for a good while and she reaffirmed that this was a foster/trial period, and that if things didn't go well, I could return him. Mom and I were both worried about what kind of psychological trauma that might put the cat and I through but Sid assured me that it would be okay. We decided that I owed both the cat and myself the chance and so I agreed to take him. I then said an oath to The gods... on Hellas, to be the best that I could be to him, not promising to keep him, but that if They helped me out with him that I'd do everything in my power to make sure that he was happy and healthy. I said that I knew that alot had to change in my life but that I was ready, and if They helped me, I'd do it. So yeah. Now you could tell how serious I am about this. I would never! swear on my country unless I was absolutely sure that I meant what I said.
He arrived at 1 something yesterday (the first driver couldn't make it for Saturday). I've decided to call him Sotis, which is short for Sotirios (saviour), because I think that he will save me from alot of things, most importantly, disorganisation, procrastination, lonliness and the rut that I've been in lately. He really is a mellow cat and loves to explore as Sid said. He also enjoys being cuddled, petted and having his head scratched. At first, I thought that I would be nervous when holding him, but it was alot easier than I thought it would be. He got on the table once and I got him off. He seemed to get the idea there but not on the counters because he was up there at least three times. But, of course, it was his first day, so I wasn't too hard on him. We put a bell collar on him so that I could always tell where he is. I'm very grateful that Mom thought of this because it helps keep him out of trouble and really eases my mind. As a sidenote, he hasn't jumped on me once, hasn't tried to scratch me and certainly showed no signs of aggression, even when I lifted him off things.
Last night was a bit rough. I wanted to get to sleep at 11 but Sotis had other ideas. So he played on the bed while Mommy tried to sleep and Mommy threw (not literally of course) him out of the room. Well, his mieowing melted my heart. So I just had! to let him in and for that, I was granted with sleep at 2 something, with him lying quietly beside me. I felt alot better, though, because I knew that he wasn't alone and I didn't have to worry about him getting into any mischief while I wasn't there to supervise. But I will say one thing. This apartment has never been this organised with me in it. There is absolutely nothing on any counter, table, dresser or other surface where he might go, all because I'm afraid that he might chew, swallow and/or choke on something. Yeah, I know that cats are careful but don't tell my brain that. lol I think that's part of why he was named Sotis, after all.
Today was a very stressful day. This morning, Sotis threw up. I think it was just because he wasn't used to the canned food that he tried today. In dry He eats California Natural, and this one is also a natural brand, but I don't think he's ever had it. In any case, Mom pointed out his jumping and said that Sid had lied to me and that he jumped because this is a natural thing. I explained that she said that he didn't jump there, not that he would never jump, but Mom's the type who, when set in her ways, brings things up when she's proven right. I e-mailed and then called Sid and we discussed everything. She reassured me that yes, she is licensed and that it's standard practice for nonprofit rescue groups to take animals back should things not work out. She even said that, since it's so early, she'd help me with vet costs should he really turn out to be sick. So we smoothed everything over and all of us are calm now.
Last night, I put out a blanket for him on the dresser in my room. Today, he stayed on there for I don't even know how long, but it seemed like hours. I was beginning to get worried that maybe he really was sick. But eventually, he got up and started playing with his ball with the bell, his three little stuffed mice and his paper towel tube. Joanie came up to see sotis for a few minutes and noticed that he was still warm, so I turned on the air conditioner in hopes that it would help him and he seemed to liven up after that. He's eaten at least three times today and has drank at least twice so I know that's a good sign. He's also been doing something really weird with his litter pan. It sounds like scratching and banging. I know that cats sometimes roll in their litter boxes and found that they also dig, so that could be it. Anyway, we're changing the litter tomorrow, either just scooping out the bad stuff or changing the whole thing, I'm not sure. But Mom will show me how so that I can scoop it at least once or twice a day. I think I might also make it a bit deeper, since I read that that could cause this strange behaviour. I just want to insure that he's comfortable.
So that's about it for now. Sotis seems to be settling in fine and acting normally. He's learning not to go into the bathroom... well, the closed door there helps a bit I think *smile* and we're still working on the table. He went on there twice today but not the counters. lol Maybe, he takes turns. But other than that, he's got the lay of the land, except when I'm eating, during which time he occasionally finds himself in the bedroom for safety and health reasons. He's really the perfect little angel. Now I just have to get used to hair being everywhere! lol He's supposed to be a domestic shorthair. Btw, thanks little foot, for your wonderful suggestion of a cat scratcher. It's already on the list of things that I want to get him and I think that he'll definitely enjoy it.
Hope your trial run goes well with the cat! I know you're squeamish about neutering, but here is what you can expect with an "unfixed" male: My ex-boyfriend once left his car window down & a male cat got in & sprayed. It was a most awful stench, & he hadn't kept a cat since boyhood, so he asked a local vet how he could eliminate the stench from his car. The answer, coming from a licensed veterinarian: "With a grenade." If Sotis is kept outside unfixed, expect him to come back beat up competing with other males, also having fathered most likely unwanted kittens. Your choice, obviously, but unfortunately I had a cat I waited too long to get fixed, & the latter two examples were the result. I hope this is the pet for you, and good luck.
And female cats, even ones that aren't normally so, become extremely! vocal when they're in heat. And it almost sounds like there's a human baby in the house.